Belgian waffles

Read through the recipe, gather the equipment, and use the ingredient lines to measure and prepare everything. Keep the eggs in the refrigerator until you separate them. Everything is measured and within reach.

Heat the oven to 200°F (95°C) with a rack in the middle position, and set the wire rack on the rimmed baking sheet on that oven rack for holding the waffles. Heat the waffle iron on its medium-high setting until its ready light comes on, about 10 minutes.

Melt the butter in the small saucepan over low heat, then take the pan off the heat and let the butter cool until it is liquid and just warm to the touch.

Separate the cold eggs one at a time over the small cup, sliding each white into the large, very clean bowl and each yolk into a medium bowl, until no trace of yolk is in the whites.

Whisk the flour, 2 tbsp granulated sugar, the baking powder and 1/2 tsp fine salt in the third bowl. Whisk the milk and vanilla into the yolks, then whisk in the melted butter in a thin stream. Stir the wet mixture into the dry with the spatula just until combined, stopping while a few small lumps remain. If the batter is too stiff to stir, loosen it with extra whole milk to taste, no more than 2 tbsp for this batch.

Beat the egg whites with clean beaters on medium speed until foamy and opaque. Add 1 tbsp granulated sugar and beat on medium-high speed until glossy peaks hold when you lift the beaters, with only the very top of each peak curling over.

Stir about a third of the whipped whites into the batter to lighten it. Fold in the other two-thirds with the spatula: cut down through the center, sweep along the bottom and up the side, turn the spatula over and give the bowl a quarter turn. Stop when only a few thin white streaks remain.

Cook a test waffle with the iron on its medium-high setting. If your iron tends to stick, brush the hot grids lightly with a little of the canola oil first. Pour batter into the center to cover about two-thirds of the grid, close the lid, and cook until the steam slows to a thin wisp, about 4 to 5 minutes. Taste the cooked test waffle, never the raw batter. Aim for a crisp, deep golden outside, an airy inside and a buttery, lightly sweet, well-salted flavor. If it tastes flat, fold fine salt to taste into the batter in the bowl with two strokes.

Cook the other waffles the same way with the iron on its medium-high setting, pouring each one after the ready light comes back on and cooking until its steam slows to a thin wisp. Give the batter one fold from the bottom before each pour. Move each finished waffle to the wire rack in the 200°F oven in a single layer so it stays crisp.

Divide the waffles into 4 servings on warm plates, giving everyone one whole waffle and cutting any extra waffles into quarters to share. Add sliced strawberries, softly whipped cream, powdered sugar or warm maple syrup to taste, if using, at the table. Serve while the waffles are still crisp.