Stews and chili

Brick-Red Chili with Toasted Chiles and Masa Crunch

Chili powder is a shortcut, and it tastes like one. This pot starts with whole anchos and guajillos, toasted until they smell like dried fruit and smoke, then soaked and blended into a brick-red paste. Unsalted chicken stock keeps you in charge of the salt, a little dark chocolate and coffee add bass notes nobody can name, and masa is there if you want it thick. Beef and chile bring the depth, a hit of vinegar wakes it up, and lime-pickled onion and a pepita crunch give every spoonful something sharp and something loud.

4 servings