French toast

Read through the recipe and gather the equipment. Use the ingredient lines to prepare and measure everything, and set the wire rack on the baking sheet. Everything is measured and the rack is on the baking sheet.

Heat the oven to 200°F with the rack and baking sheet on the middle rack, for holding the finished slices. The oven has reached temperature.

Whisk 2 tbsp granulated sugar, the cinnamon, ground nutmeg to taste, if using, and 1/4 tsp fine salt in the shallow dish. Add the eggs and whisk until completely smooth with no white streaks, about 1 minute. Whisk in about 1 cup whole milk and the vanilla.

Set the 12-inch skillet over medium-low to medium heat with 1 tbsp unsalted butter and 1 tsp canola oil. Heat until the butter foams and the foam starts to settle, about 2 minutes.

Soak 2 slices day-old challah in the custard, turning once, until soft and heavy through but still holding their shape, about 15 to 30 seconds per side. Lift each slice with the turner, letting the extra custard drip back.

Cook the soaked slices over medium-low to medium heat until deep golden underneath and releasing easily, then flip. Cook until the second side is golden, the center springs back and an instant-read thermometer slid sideways into the middle reads 160°F (71°C), about 3 minutes per side. Move them to the rack in the oven.

Taste a corner of a slice that reached 160°F (71°C). Aim for warm vanilla custard, lightly sweet and spiced, not eggy. If it tastes flat, add fine salt to taste to the custard; if it is not sweet enough, add granulated sugar to taste; if it tastes eggy, whisk in whole milk to taste, no more than about 1/2 cup for this batch. Whisk the custard well before the next dip. The custard is tuned for the next slices.

Cook the next 3 rounds the same way over medium-low to medium heat, 2 slices at a time, using 6 slices day-old challah, 3 tbsp unsalted butter and 3 tsp canola oil, with a third of the butter and oil going into the pan for each round. Wipe the skillet with a paper towel held in tongs whenever the butter darkens, and check each round with the thermometer before moving it to the oven. Every slice is golden and reads 160°F (71°C) in the center.

Divide the French toast among warm plates, 2 slices each, to make 4 servings. Top with warm maple syrup, powdered sugar and fresh berries to taste, if using. Each plate has 2 golden slices.